CHOOSING THE TANKS
The tank is the most important piece of equipment Lou will buy, since it provides a home for your fish. Anyone starting out in fishkeeping faces a bewildering array of tanks to choose from, in a wide range of sizes and styles. Your budget and the space available in your home will influence your choice, but always make the welfare of the fish the prime consideration when buying a tank. Never select a tank simply because it looks good.
For fish, living space in an aquarium is at a premium, since the population density in the tank is much greater than in any natural aquatic habitat. Consequently, it is best to opt for the largest tank that you can afford and that space allows. Small tanks are initially cheaper to buy, but they are not necessarily any cheaper to run in the long term. What is more, you may find that your fish rapidly outgrow their accommodation.
Before purchasing your tank, it is worth thinking about the type and number of fish you want to keep, and to find out their adult size. The key factor in assessing the correct stocking density of a tank is its surface area, because it is here, at the water–air interface that gas exchange occurs. The greater the surface area, the more dissolved oxygen there will be in the water, and the more fish the tank will comfortably be able to support. It is usually recommended to allow about 12 in2 (75 cm2) of surface area per 1 in (2.5 cm) of adult fish body length (excluding the caudal fin).
In addition to the surface area, you also need to consider the volume of the tank, since the aquarium needs to provide adequate swimming space for the fish. Allow about 1 gallon of water per inch of adult fish body length (equivalent to about 2 liters per centimeter).When making your calculations, remember to deduct ten percent of the total tank volume to take account of rockwork and other decor.
BUYING AND TRANSPORTING A TANK
Staff at aquarium stores can advise you on the type of tank that will meet your needs. The tips below will enable you to do your own quality checks before purchasing, and help you to get the tank home safely.
Check the joints between the glass panels to be sure that there is an even coverage of silicone sealant. If an area has been missed, the tank is likely to leak. Do not attempt to cut away any apparently surplus sealant, since this may seriously weaken the joints. Excess sealant may look ugly, but it will be inconspicuous against the substrate when the aquarium is complete.
Examine the corners, which are potential weak spots on a glass tank. Larger, heavier tanks are especially vulnerable to damage if they have been tipped and supported on a corner first, rather than being lifted up horizontally. This can cause the glass to break into gritty fragments that may remain compressed in place, but can still result in a serious weakness.
Be careful when taking your new purchase home, because tanks can be cumbersome and heavy. The store should tape Styrofoam protectors over the vulnerable edges. When carrying the tank, always support it from beneath, regardless of its size. Lay the tank on a rug or similar soft material in the car to prevent it from being scratched, and make sure that it cannot slide around.
TANKS AND STANDS
A typical box-shaped tank is made from panels of glass held together by a special silicone sealant, free from chemicals that may harm fish. The silicone forms a strong, watertight bond, and is also flexible, to prevent the panels from being pushed apart by the water pressure. Some aquariums have a protective frame of plastic or metal, although metal is best avoided, since it corrodes. Most tanks come with a hood that contains light fixtures and helps reduce evaporation from the water’s surface.
Acrylic tanks are costlier than glass aquariums, but they are much stronger and lighter. Acrylic is also clearer than glass and a better insulator (so the tank loses less heat to the surroundings), but it scratches more easily and is harder to clean. “Plug-and-go” acrylic tanks can be bought with all the electrical equipment already in place, so you can simply add the substrate and decor, fill the tank, and turn on the power.
Whether you choose glass or acrylic, the finished tank is likely to be heavy a 20-gallon (90-liter) tank, for example, can weigh 285 lb. (130 kg) when full. Domestic furniture may not be able to bear such loads, so consider buying a stand or cabinet that is designed to take the weight of a full tank.
SECOND-HAND TANKS
A more economical way of starting off is to buy a second-hand tank. Always check glass tanks carefully for signs of leakage, and look for any scratches on the inner surface of the glass. Such scratches may seem innocuous at the time of purchase, but they will be unsightly if they later become colonized by algae, and the algae will be virtually impossible to remove. Acrylic tanks need to be inspected closely for scratches, discoloration, and cracks. Electrical equipment, such as a heater or fluorescent tube, is best replaced, and the wiring should be checked by a professional electrician.
source: Alderton, D. Encyclopedia of Aquarium and Pond Fish
source: Alderton, D. Encyclopedia of Aquarium and Pond Fish
